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Can an antacid brand be cool? US startup Wonderbelly is banking on it
When you think of burgeoning retail markets, antacids may not be the first one that comes to mind.
However, according to global market research consulting firm Market Data Forecast, the North American antacids market was valued at US$5.38 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.6 per cent to US$6.37 billion by 2028.
One brand that is already keyed into this growing field is Wonderbelly.
Launched in July 2022, the company has seen rapid-fire growth since its launch, having raised over US$5 million in capital from investors; including Brand Project, Slow, AF Ventures, and Sweet Leaf Tea founder Clayton Christopher.
What are the factors driving Wonderbelly’s success in this expanding field, and what does it potentially say about the future of the over-the-counter pharmaceutical market?
Wonderbelly’s origin story
Like many of the most successful products launched to market, the concept for Wonderbelly came from a personal place.
The brand’s co-founder and CEO Lucas Kraft, who runs the business with his brother Noah, has had an ongoing battle with bulimia since he was 15 years old. Though Kraft is currently in recovery, he found that he still had residual health issues to deal with, like heartburn.
While he found some relief from brand-name over-the-counter medications like Tums or Pepto Bismol, his reliance on these drugs shifted during the pandemic. In April 2020, there was a mass recall on one of the medications he was using because it contained a carcinogenic ingredient.
This prompted Kraft to look at the ingredients in his medicine cabinet, including talc and titanium dioxide, which he no longer wanted to ingest on a regular basis. That’s where the idea for Wonderbelly came in.
Wonderbelly is a digestive health company that currently offers chewable tablets in a variety of flavors, like fruity cereal, strawberry milkshake, or lemon sorbet, to provide relief for gastrointestinal issues, such as heartburn and acid indigestion.
The brand launched in July 2022 with a direct-to-consumer site, and has since expanded to multiple grocery stores and medicinal distributors. In March 2023, Wonderbelly launched at over 650 Target locations and can be purchased from bricks-and-mortar stores and online retailers like Meijer, Grove, Thrive, Erwhon, and Amazon
Antacids’ new wave of consumers
Antacids are typically seen as a product meant for older consumers, like those in the baby boomer demographic. However, the face of the average antacid user may not be what you expect.
Kraft divulged that roughly 60 per cent of Wonderbelly’s consumer base are women between the ages of 23 to 44.
In addition to those like Kraft, who may be dealing with gastrointestinal issues developed as a result of an eating disorder, antacids are also consumed by pregnant individuals and those going through menopause.
Kraft referenced the popular TikTok hashtag #hotgirlswithstomachissues, which currently has over 3.8 million views, to showcase the strong female market for antacids and to reflect the open discussions younger generations are having about stomach issues.
Kraft theorised that the other factors that played into the growth of the antacid market include millennials and Gen Z’s fondness for spicy-slash-adventurous foods, an increasingly sedentary lifestyle, and the Covid-19 pandemic.
Like hair loss and a weakened sense of smell, gastrointestinal issues, like heartburn, are also a potential knock-on effect from Covid-19.
In an analysis published by Nature Communications, a peer-reviewed science journal, in March 2023, gastrointestinal disorders were 36 per cent more likely to develop in people who have had Covid compared with those who had not been infected with the virus.
“Millennials and older Gen Zers, are experiencing digestive issues like heartburn at an extremely high rate, and their values are extremely different from the values of these older products,” Kraft pointed out.
The values Kraft is referring to include sustainably designed containers, “clean” product formulations, and even design features like bright, cheerful packaging.
Wonderbelly’s products are formulated sans titanium dioxide, talc, dyes, and artificial sweeteners, and are also gluten and dairy-free. The tablets are stored in pastel-colored recyclable aluminum tins or in single-use paper pouches. Kraft explained that he wanted items from Wonderbelly to convey the joy that antacids provide for the consumer.
The future of over-the-counter medications
The emergence of brands like Wonderbelly provides a glimpse of the direction that over-the-counter medication is heading towards.
As reported by Statista, the North American market for over-the-counter pharmaceuticals was valued at US$32.88 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.83 per cent to US$39.71 billion in 2027.
Due to factors like the growing cost of healthcare in the United States, more consumers are leaning towards over-the-counter medications and other remedies to address their various health issues. Additionally, more consumers, especially those in the millennial and Gen Z age demographic, are open to trying new medications than their parents or grandparents were using.
As Kraft pointed out “these 100-year-old [antacid] brands haven’t really been challenged to be updated in a way that fit the values, whether it’s sustainability, or ingredient alternatives, or just mission-based companies way that meet the modern day consumer.”
Be it earth-friendly packaging, “cleaner” formulations (i.e. no talc, titanium dioxide, and so on), or more colourfully and aesthetically pleasing product designs, there are endless opportunities for disruptor brands to shake up the over-the-counter pharmaceutical market.
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Pumpkin spice latte season is here. But is the cult drink’s popularity waning?
In the northern hemisphere, fall is right around the corner. And just like the changing colors of the leaves and the cold nip in the air, the arrival of pumpkin-spice flavoured food products and merchandise feels inevitable.
In 2022, Starbucks, the first American coffee brand to promote pumpkin spice lattes, launched the popular drink on August 30. This year, it happened on August 24, while rival coffee chain Dunkin’ Donuts launched its own version on August 16.
The creeping drop dates have raised questions about whether it’s OK to promote a fall-themed drink in the summer, while underlining just how popular pumpkin spice lattes really are. But is the 20-year reign of the PSL starting to wane?
Where does the obsession with pumpkin spice stem from?
To be clear, the pumpkin spice in pumpkin spice lattes has nothing to do with the vegetable itself. The seasoning, also referred to as pumpkin pie spice, is a blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and occasionally allspice.
It wasn’t until 2015, after food blogger Vani Hair, also known as Food Babe, began putting pressure on Starbucks to reveal the contents of its ingredients, that the brand started to use real pumpkin in its drink, adding a pump of pumpkin puree.
But the real origin story begins in 2003, when Peter Dukes, then-director of espresso Americas for Starbucks, was leading a research and development meeting to come up with a new fall drink.
The coffee chain had already introduced seasonal drinks like eggnog lattes and peppermint mochas, and pumpkin pie was the next on the list. The R&D team famously ate pumpkin pie and drank espresso to finetune the flavours in the room.
Fast forward to this year, and Starbucks is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the pumpkin spice latte with a specially curated menu at all six Starbucks Reserve stores in the US.
For a limited time, Starbucks Reserve is offering a pumpkin spice-themed menu of beverages and artisanal food items, from the OG drink, to a pumpkin spice whiskey barrel-aged iced latte, pumpkin spice espresso martini, and pumpkin spice cake.
How has the pumpkin spice trend stood the test of time?
As pumpkin spice lattes have grown in popularity, so too have products like pumpkin-spice-flavoured lip gloss and hummus.
According to data collected by audience insights, data, and analytics company NielsenIQ, in the 12 months to July 29, US sales of pumpkin-flavoured products reached US$802.5 million, marking a 42 per cent increase from the same period in 2019. But when looking at the unit sales of pumpkin spice drinks in particular, NielsenIQ found that they dipped 1.5 per cent year-over-year, after flatlining the year before.
“Merchandise for the signature drink this year hasn’t been as popular, with the number of pumpkin spice latte apparel available on US retailers’ sites dropping 24 per cent versus the previous year,” a representative from the retail intelligence company Edited, told Inside Retail.
As Edited pointed out, the hype around pumpkin spice lattes has given way to numerous other food-focused aesthetics or cores that are currently dominating social media, such as the “tomato” and “strawberry girl” trends.
“While the pumpkin spice latte may be falling out of favour, inspiration from winter beverages has emerged as frontrunners for Fall/Winter 2023 fashion and beauty trends,” Edited said. “On TikTok, #lattemakeup clocked 151 million global views in the past month. At the same time, hot chocolate hues are a trending fall shade and featured prominently at Copenhagen Fashion Week, indicating its longevity into spring 2024.”
Will there ever be another pumpkin spice latte?
Against the backdrop of changing consumer tastes and preferences, a representative from Starbucks shared that the brand is continuing to develop new pumpkin-inspired drinks, as well as other drinks to capture the attention of its growing Gen Z audience base.
“In 2019, Starbucks introduced the Pumpkin Cream Cold Brew as customer interest in cold beverages began to take hold. This year, Starbucks welcomed the new Iced Pumpkin Cream Chai Tea Latte to the fall menu and introduced pumpkin to select Starbucks Reserve locations, such as the Starbucks Reserve Roasteries, for the first time,” the spokesperson said.
According to Starbucks, cold drinks now make up the majority of its beverage sales, and bringing a new generation of customers into stores.
“Specifically, Iced Shaken Espresso is resonating with our Gen Z customers to such an extent that it has become the fastest-growing product category in our US company-operated stores, growing 50 per cent year-over-year, more than doubling year-to-date and importantly, creating new customer occasions in the midday and afternoon.”
But does any drink — cold or otherwise — stand a chance of achieving the cult status of the pumpkin spice latte? The odds are low.
The introduction of social media apps like Instagram and especially TikTok in the past 20 years means that there are simply too many influencers promoting various trending items, like espresso martinis and dalgona coffee, for a singular drink to stand out in the mix.
While these new drinks may be receiving a notable amount of attention, it is highly unlikely that any of them will be as culturally significant as the pumpkin spice latte once was.
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How Gen Z’s love for thrifting got fashion brands to finally embrace resale
It’s no secret that secondhand fashion has been having a moment for the past few years.
According to a report conducted by ThredUp, an online consignment and thrift store, the US secondhand market is expected to reach (US$70 billion) by 2027. Globally, the market is expected to reach (US$350 billion) in the same time period.
Thanks in large part to TikTok and Gen Z’s love of thrifting and vintage fashion, the resale market has never been more robust.
Established resale platforms like eBay, Depop, and TheRealReal have been profiting off of the vintage fashion trend. But what about the brands that consumers are buying on these platforms?
With such a strong market for archival fashion, should fashion houses be doing more to cash in on the trend?
The rise of the resale market
While thrifting has always been popular with fashion archivists and sustainability advocates, the practice has become more mainstream in recent years, causing the secondhand fashion market to explode.
A major factor behind this shift is the rise of video-forward social media app TikTok and its primarily Gen Z user base.
In 2019, TikTok was downloaded 693 million times, making it the most downloaded app that year. In 2020, it was downloaded another 850 million times. Today, 60 per cent of TikTok users are part of the Gen Z demographic.
Resale platform Depop, which attributes 90 per cent of its user base to Gen Z, also had a record number of annual users in 2020, at 4 million.
Hashtags like #thriftflip, #upcycledfashion, and #vintagehaul encouraged and highlighted the concept of thrifting and repurposing old clothing items, and brought brands like Vivienne Westwood and Juicy Couture back into the spotlight.
Buying and wearing secondhand clothing — once seen as something to be downplayed — has become trendy, and perhaps even more desirable than buying brand-new clothing items.
The environmental benefits of prolonging the lifecycle of clothing is a key part of this. Gen Z is often described as being more focused on sustainability than previous generations.
ThredUp’s 2023 Resale Report found that 83 per cent of Gen Z consumers have shopped or are open to shopping for secondhand apparel, and view this market segment as both a trendier and more sustainable shopping route.
Building an in-house resale division
While resale sites like ThredUp, The RealReal, and Depop are cashing in on selling vintage items, what about the fashion brands that populate their platforms?
As Coresight research analyst Sunny Zheng told CO—, a digital information platform created by the US Chamber of Commerce, more retailers should consider investing in a resale division in-house.
“Our estimate is that over 60 per cent of brands and retailers partner with third-party resale marketplaces such as ThredUp to enter the fashion resale market, while over 20 per cent choose to build their own marketplaces from scratch,” Zheng stated. “We believe that those that bring the resale business in-house will likely achieve better profit margins than brands and retailers that work with third-party marketplaces because of lower operational costs.”
In May, Diane Von Furstenberg became the latest fashion brand to do just that through its partnership with Archive, a technology company that powers profitable resale businesses for global brands, according to CEO and co-founder Emily Gittens.
Dubbed ReWrap — a nod to the brand’s iconic wrap dresses — the program enables consumers to buy and sell pre-owned Diane Von Furstenberg and shop the brand’s archival designs.
There is also a feature dubbed “Missed Connections”, operating essentially like a classified ads page for the fashion brand to secure specific collections or pieces from customers, including Furstenberg herself.
As the cost of living continues to rise, experts predict that more consumers will be turning towards secondhand fashion items as a way to cut costs, providing even more incentive for fashion brands to hop on the resale train while they can.
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How the beauty and sexual wellness industries became so intertwined
When you walk into a beauty store, you expect to find a wide array of makeup powders, hair curlers, and setting sprays. But what about products like massage candles, vibrators, and lubricants?
In recent years, these and other sexual wellness products have been popping up on the physical and virtual shelves of many mainstream beauty retailers in the US, such as Sephora and Ulta Beauty.
Last September, Ulta Beauty added an intimate wellness section to its ‘Wellness Shop’, a segment dedicated to self-care and health-related products. And this March, Maude became the first sexual wellness brand to be carried in Sephora’s bricks-and-mortar stores.
Other mainstream retailers that have added intimate care divisions in the past few years include Bluemercury, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Bergdorf Goodman.
On the flip side, sexual wellness brands, like Lelo, have also begun leaning into the beauty category by launching their own cosmetic lines.
So, why have these seemingly disparate retail categories start to merge together, and what do they have in common?
The current state of the sexual wellness market
According to a market research study published by Zion Market Research, the global sexual wellness market size was worth around (US$57.5 billion) in 2022 and is predicted to grow to around (US$110.33 billion) by 2030 with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of roughly 8.49 per cent during the forecast period 2023-2030.
There are several factors behind this growth, which in turn, has driven the integration of sexual wellness products into beauty retail.
One major factor was the pandemic and consumers’ increased interest in self-care products, including sexual wellness items, during this time. With limited opportunities for physical interaction and heightened levels of financial, physical, and emotional stress, many consumers turned to sexual wellness products as a form of rest and relaxation.
Wow Tech Group, which owns sex toy brands We-Vibe and Womanizer, reported that online sales for both brands were 200 per cent higher in April 2020 compared to the previous year, while sex toy retailer Adam and Even reported a 30 per cent year-on-year increase in online sales in March and April 2020.
Penny Coy, Ulta Beauty’s vice president of merchandising, explained that sexual wellness products have become another avenue of self care for the consumers, in the same way that makeup and skincare items have traditionally been.
“Sexual health was once considered a taboo topic across the retail industry and we’ve seen increased acceptance of the category, alongside a deeper connection between intimacy and overall wellbeing in recent years,” she said.
“In recent years, we’ve continued to see our guests invest in self-care alongside beauty to not only look their best, but also feel their best. Our guests closely connect intimate wellness to holistic wellbeing – whether they are looking to enhance their intimate experience with oils, lubricants, devices, and suppositories, or nurture their care for ‘down there’ with pH-balancing cleansers, wipes, aftercare, and supplements.”
As Coy pointed out, conversations about sexual wellness were traditionally hushed, but nowadays, many Millennial and Gen Z women speak openly about topics like periods, perimenopause, and menopause.
A report from business analytics company Future Market Insights disclosed that the women’s intimate care products market is estimated to reach (US$28.88 billion) in 2023 and (US$43 billion) by 2023. Currently, women’s intimate care products account for an approximately 19 per cent share of the global skincare market.
Sexual wellness blends into the beauty industry
Aside from beauty retailers integrating sexual wellness products into their offerings, the sexual wellness industry has been dipping a toe into the world of cosmetic products.
In June, Swedish sex toy and message brand Lelo launched its own beauty line dubbed Lelo Makeup. Currently, the brand offers liquid lipstick and tube lipstick formulations.
Lelo’s chief marketing officer Luka Matutinovic concurred with Ulta Beauty’s statement and added that the sexual wellness category — like the beauty category — flourishes upon the concept of self-expression.
“The beauty world, and especially makeup, thrives on uninhibited self-expression and inspires experimentation, much like the world of sexual wellness. But, there is an even more inherent link than it might seem at first glance,” Matutinovic said.
“The common denominator between beauty and sexual wellness is self-love. Self-love in its turn boosts confidence. Applying a bold shade of lipstick, for example, boosts confidence, calls on our creativity makes a bold statement, and makes you look like a million bucks. And it was for this reason that we have decided to enrich our portfolio of products and delve into beauty.”
What’s next?
Looking ahead, sexual wellness products are likely to become even more prevalent in the beauty industry, with further integration into relatively untapped spaces, such as fragrance.
In July, consumer trend analytics firm Spate revealed that “pheromone perfume” was one of the highest trending search terms in the fragrance industry, with searches for the term increasing by 115.7 per cent year-over-year. Over 20.4 per cent growth is predicted in the next 12 months.
Fragrance brands like Marilyn Miglin and Pure Instinct are currently leading in this trend.
Collaborations are likely to increase in the future as well, in the vein of the partnership between beauty brand Pacifica and sexual wellness brand Lola. Last December, they created a bundle package including reusable eye and brow masks along with ultra-thin latex condoms.
The beauty industry has long employed tongue-in-cheek marketing campaigns — think Nars Cosmetics’ “Orgasm” collection or Too Faced Cosmetics’ “Better Than Sex” mascara. Now, it can address the topic of sexual wellness in more directly — and reach a new audience of open-minded consumers in the process.
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Why the “stars are aligning” for a successful return of Marc Jacobs Beauty
American fashion designer Marc Jacobs first launched his eponymous beauty brand in 2013, making more than 120 products available for purchase in select Marc Jacobs stores and at Sephora. Created in connection with Kendo Brands, a beauty incubator owned by luxury group LVMH, Marc Jacobs Beauty was discontinued in 2021 after its contract with Kendo ended and was not renewed.
At the time of the closure, a representative of Marc Jacobs told Business of Fashion that this wouldn’t be the last the public would see of the brand: “Marc Jacobs Beauty is not being discontinued. Currently, we are in the process of strategizing the best way to reach our global customer going forward.”
Now, the brand has announced that it is officially being revived through a partnership with French-American multinational beauty company Coty. According to Coty’s CEO Sue Y. Nabi, the beauty line is expected to debut in two to three years.
The beauty world is buzzing with the news, but will the second iteration of the brand prove more successful than the prior attempt?
The rise and fall of Marc Jacobs Beauty
Marc Jacobs Beauty quickly developed a devoted fanbase upon its debut into the world of cosmetics, with its gel eyeliners and the “eye-conic” long-wear eyeshadow palettes proving particularly popular with beauty lovers and makeup artists alike.
In addition to the exposure it gained from being used on models in Marc Jacobs’ runway shows, the beauty line was able to build a strong social media following through its affiliations with A-list names, including popular makeup influencers like Nikkie de Jager, better known as NikkieTutorials, as well as celebrity models like Adwoa Aboah and Kaia Gerber, who is currently one of the faces of Marc Jacobs Daisy, the brand’s popular fragrance.
Outwardly, the beauty line appeared to be thriving, but the broader Marc Jacobs business was on shaky ground. In 2015, the more financially accessible Marc by Marc Jacobs line was pulled back, and LVMH shut down the brand’s menswear department in 2017. Marc Jacobs closed dozens of bricks-and-mortar stores across Europe and the US, including the flagship “MarcLand” store in New York.
Consolidated retail revenues, not counting fragrance royalties, reportedly fell from US$650 million in 2015 to US$300 million in 2018. However, in recent years, Marc Jacobs has been making a comeback, both on social media and in sales revenue.
In 2019, Marc Jacobs launched a handbag dubbed “The Tote Bag”, which went viral a year later on TikTok for its stylish simplicity and fairly accessible price point. The fashion house also gained a younger, more trend-savvy consumer base with the launch of the Heaven by Marc Jacobs line in 2020.
The buzz around Marc Jacobs Beauty
The return of Marc Jacobs Beauty comes as a growing number of high-end fashion houses expand their beauty offerings beyond the fragrance lines, which many had previously established.
Valentino Beauty was introduced to the US market in June 2021, while Paco Rabanne’s beauty collection Rabanne Beauty will be released in October 2023, and Prada Beauty is expected to roll out in the US by January 2024.
Unlike these other beauty lines, Marc Jacobs already has a built-in fanbase of former consumers who have been eagerly awaiting news of the brand’s resurrection.
In May 2023, luxury online fashion retailer Net-A-Porter appeared to prematurely spill the beans that Marc Jacobs Beauty products would eventually be available on the site. The page was quickly taken down but not before speculation was reignited about the brand’s comeback.
Beauty experts and hosts of the “Gloss Angeles” podcast, Kirbie Johnson and Sara Tan, dedicated an entire episode to speculating on the return of the beauty line, dubbed “Could Marc Jacobs Beauty Be Resurrected? We Can Only Hope”. The episode was released on June 6, 2023, just a few weeks before the brand’s official statement.
What is different this time around?
While the beauty landscape is as competitive as ever, there are a few factors that could prove advantageous to Marc Jacobs Beauty’s revival.
The brand is working with Coty, a corporation that already has a strong understanding of the Marc Jacobs ethos, as it has long worked with the luxury brand on its fragrance offering.
“The expansion and extension of our longstanding agreement with the house of Marc Jacobs, now in its 20th year, is a testament to the enduring success of our partnership and the brand’s limitless potential,” Nabi stated in a press release.
“Through its partnership with Coty, Marc Jacobs’ Fragrances have achieved great success, growing to become one of the top 10 female fragrances world-wide, thanks to the iconic Daisy Marc Jacobs and Perfect Marc Jacobs franchises. The revival of Marc Jacobs’ cosmetic portfolio, now in partnership with Coty, is eagerly anticipated by consumers around the world who have been campaigning for its return.”
The brand has also expanded its e-commerce footprint with the opening of the brand’s flagship store on Lazada, a leading online retailer in Southeast Asia that is expected to reach 413 million users by 2025.
Marie Driscoll, an expert on luxury retail and founder and chief analyst at Driscoll Advisors, told Inside Retail that Coty is “the right partner at the right time for the relaunch of Marc Jacobs Beauty.”
“Ahead of its time with genderless beauty products when first launched in 2013 in a partnership with Kendo Brands, the brand was abandoned in 2021 despite consumer demand as Kendo focused on the rapid growth of Fenty Beauty,” Driscoll said.
“We have no doubt of the commitment and talent of both partners in this endeavor and consumers are clamoring for the return of Marc Jacobs Beauty.”
Noting that Coty’s CEO described the brand as “perfectly positioned between couture and indie” earlier this month, Driscoll believes that “the stars are aligning for a successful second run.”
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Sustainable athleisure is big business, but rising costs pose a challenge
The athleisure market has been on the rise for many years, driven by factors, such as the casualisation of consumers’ wardrobes and the rise of sneakers and streetwear as aspirational style trends.
Covid further accelerated this shift, with Fashion Genome, an intelligent data platform created by True Fit, finding that athleisure sales jumped over 84 per cent between March and December of 2020. And notably, even once pandemic restrictions were lifted, athleisure sales continued to rise.
SkyQuest, a global market intelligence and growth consulting company, projects the global athleisure market will reach $548 billion by 2023, reflecting a compound annual growth rate of 8.4 per cent. Within that, the sustainable athleisure space is seeing significant growth in particular.
According to a report conducted by business consulting firm Grand View Research, the global market for sustainable athleisure was valued at $63.1 billion in 2020 and is expected to reach $117.4 billion by 2027, reflecting a compound annual growth rate of 5 per cent.
Grand View Research credits the “the growing e-commerce retail market, increasing corporate wellness programs, and the rising number of start-ups in the sustainable athleisure space” with driving the rise of this specific category within the athleisure market.
Brands are tapping into sustainable athleisure
In 2021, several apparel brands launched collections with a focus on using recycled materials and more eco-friendly production process including Reformation’s Ref Active line, Puma’s Re:Collection, and Champion Athleticwear’s Natural State Reverse Weave and Rally Pro Earth footwear collections.
A few indie brands are also making headway in the sustainable apparel industry, particularly in regards to athleisure, including American-based brands like Losano and Girlfriend Collective.
Much like the accessible fashion industry, however, the term “sustainable” doesn’t have an exact, standardised meaning, so brands tend to rely on a range of industry benchmarks and ratings to reassure customers and differentiate themselves from those that are engaging in greenwashing.
For example, Girlfriend Collective’s packaging is 100 per cent recycled and recyclable and the brand only works with manufacturers that are WRAP and SA8000-certified.
SA8000 is a social accountability standard and certificate developed by Social Accountability International (SAI), while WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production) is the world’s largest factory-based certification program for manufacturers of clothing, footwear, and other sewn products.
Los Angeles-based sustainable apparel brand Losano also incorporates a variety of sustainably designed materials like EcoComb, a Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton, and SculptLux, a compressive matte performance fabric made of 83 per cent recycled Repreve polyester.
In February, Losano collaborated with 3D knit production house Tailored Industry to launch a six-piece knitwear collection. All of the styles were preordered and 3D-knitted in real-time, essentially eliminating the need for inventory or waste.
As Malinda Behrens, Losano’s chief operative officer, pointed out, the path to creating truly sustainable apparel is a long and winding one, that often places the financial burden on the brands themselves.
“We’re trying to introduce new and creative ways to deal with the idea of sustainability. Thinking of ways to sell leftover inventory, making sure we’re cutting all of our raw materials, and figuring out what to do with the scraps,” Behrens told Inside Retail. “We’re bearing the burden of a lot of extra work and my hope is that other manufacturers will also take that on as it’s the right thing to do.”
Gen Z and millennials
Behrens’ statement is likely to resonate with many Gen Z and millennial consumers.
A 2020 study from First Insight indicated that a much larger portion of Gen Z and millennials, 73 per cent and 68 per cent, respectively, are willing to pay more for sustainable products in comparison to other generations like Gen X (55 per cent) and Baby Boomers (42 per cent).
However, a 2023 study conducted by 33Seconds, an independent communications agency specialising in climate, technology, and lifestyle brands, pointed out that retailers must to take into account that Gen Z consumers’ desire to buy sustainably is in conflict with their desire to prioritise the cost of items over everything else.
Moving forward, sustainable athleisure brands will have to figure out a way to balance the costs of producing environmentally friendly products with the price that consumers are willing and able to pay.
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Can Gen Z intimates brand Parade maintain its cult status post-acquisition?
Earlier this month, popular US-based intimates brand Parade was acquired by Ariela & Associates International (AAI), a global manufacturer of branded and private-label apparel.
Founded by then-21-year-old Cami Téllez in 2019, Parade was initially created to fill a gap in the market for stylish and size-inclusive bras and underwear for Gen Z consumers.
Over the last four years, the brand has built a strong direct-to-consumer and retail presence and loyal consumer base, thanks to its variety of brightly colored and boldly patterned intimates and other apparel, and a marketing strategy centered on micro-influencers and user-generated content.
While numbers for the deal were not disclosed, according to data from PitchBook, Parade was last valued at US$203 million in September 2022, after having raised $56 million in venture funding from firms such as Maveron, Vice Ventures, and Lerer Hippeau.
The acquisition makes a lot of sense for AAI, which already has a number of intimates brands in its portfolio, including Smart & Sexy, Curvy Couture, and Fruit of the Loom. But whether the company will be able to maintain Parade’s cult status and loyal fanbase remains to be seen.
Why Parade is so popular
Parade has reached its current cult status by appealing to a younger, largely Gen Z, customer base through its focus on inclusivity, sustainability, and social media.
When Parade launched in 2019, legacy intimates brand Victoria’s Secret had just taken a major reputational hit, following years of criticism over its lack of size, race, and gender inclusivity, both in its merchandise and marketing campaigns, such as the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show.
Whereas Victoria’s Secret’s choice of models at the time promoted a very narrow definition of beauty, Parade offered consumers a colorful selection of products to choose from in sizes that went up to 3XL. Its campaigns featured a wide range of models across the gender spectrum with different skin tones, body types, and aesthetics.
Parade also crafted an environmentally conscious image, shipping its products in biodegradable packaging and working with Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), Fair Trade, and SA8000-certified factories.
Additionally, instead of leveraging big-name celebrities or influencers, Parade built brand awareness by sending products to micro-influencers, along with digital mood boards and creative direction suggestions via Google Drive. With smaller but more responsive followings, these micro-influencers helped build an organic and socially engaged audience base.
Since its start as a solely direct-to-consumer operation, Parade now works with a number of retailers to sell its products online and in stores, including Target and Urban Outfitters. It has also released several high-profile collaborations with companies like Coca-Cola, Juicy Couture, and Ganni.
The risk of acquisition
It’s not uncommon for founder-led brands to lose some of their luster after being acquired by a corporation. Larger companies can struggle to maintain a brand’s original messaging, and in some cases, by using their wide array of resources to make a product less exclusive and more accessible, they can also diminish its popularity with its core audience.
In January, P&G Beauty acquired Mielle Organics, a textured haircare brand founded by husband and wife team Melvin and Monique Rodriguez in 2014. The acquisition was met with mixed responses from the brand’s fanbase, many of whom were concerned that P&G would no longer prioritize the needs of its primary audience, women of color.
This was exacerbated after TikTok influencer Alix Earle started promoting Mielle Organics’ Rosemary Mint Hair Growth Oil, causing the product to sell out several times online and in-store, and seeming to confirm their fears that women of color would no longer be able to access the brand’s products, or that the product formulations would be adjusted for more non-textured hair type, as some believe has occurred with other Black-founded brands, such as SheaMoisture and Carol’s Daughter.
But there are also examples of successful acquisitions by corporations, such as L’Oréal’s purchase of skincare brand Thayers Natural Remedies in 2020 for a reported US$400 million.
Since the brand’s acquisition, several products, especially the original witch hazel toner, have gained massive popularity on TikTok, with #thayers at 1.1 billion views and counting. The brand has also hosted multiple pop-up events, and it was recently announced as the official beauty and skincare sponsor of the X Games, the first in the competition’s history.
Can Parade avoid the pitfalls?
Marie Driscoll, an expert on luxury retail and founder and chief analyst at Driscoll Advisors, told Inside Retail that “for the acquisition of Parade to be successful, Ariela & Associates International must protect, enhance, and develop the original Parade brand DNA — its colorful genderless inclusivity expressed through comfortable, colorful and fun/playful intimate wear leveraging a likeminded community of brand ambassadors.”
She pointed to Lively, a digitally native brand founded by ex-Victoria’s Secret executive Michelle Grant and acquired by Wacoal in 2019, as a useful blueprint for AAI to follow, while leaving room to incorporate Parade’s focus on gender fluidity and community building via collaborations.
“AAI would be smart to observe strategy and tactics in action while bringing their scale, sourcing, and professional brand management competencies to Parade,” Driscoll said.
“This transaction holds a lot of promise and for the team at AAI, growing Parade while taking its Gen Z learnings and applying where appropriate to its brand portfolio, is likely to be a real fun exercise.”
Alex Kavege, an influencer who has previously worked with Parade, seconded Driscoll’s opinion and added that AAI would be wise to learn from the content creators who helped turn Parade into what it is today.
“They should keep in mind that as a small brand that worked with hundreds of creators, if they want their partnerships to succeed, they need to listen to creators more. Creators are the face of the brand and a great way for Parade to know what their greater audience wants and needs,” Kavage told Inside Retail.
At the end of the day, Parade has built its reputation on catering to a diverse audience — one that is size, gender, and sexuality inclusive — and authentic interactions with content creators on social media. To maintain the brand’s legacy, AAI will need to avoid watering down the brand’s essence for something that may be considered more mainstream.
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How the Beyhive and Swifties are creating a new category of concert fashion
During the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, the retail industry saw a major spike in sales of sweatpants and other forms of comfortable wardrobe items.
According to data from American market research company The NPD Group, while total apparel sales declined by 19 per cent in 2020, sales of cozy and casual clothing rose, with sweatpants up 17 per cent, sleepwear up 6 per cent, and sports bras up 10 per cent.
However, once pandemic restrictions began to loosen up, and people started going back to working in offices and attending live events, many consumers returned to buying more glamorous outfits.
US sales revenue for women’s dresses grew by 42 per cent, year-over-year, from January through May 2022, and dress sales today are 14 per cent higher than they were before the pandemic in 2019.
Per NPD’s consumer tracking service, almost one-third of US consumers are purchasing dresses for evening or special occasion events.
One type of outing that shoppers are dressing up for in particular are concerts, especially the much-hyped Beyoncé Renaissance and Taylor Swift Eras tours.
The Beyhive and Swifties dress up
Taylor Swift’s Eras tour began in March, while Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour took off in May. While the two performers have contrasting musical and visual styles, one thing their tours have in common is the enthusiastic approach that fans have taken to dressing up.
The emergence of hashtags like #tourdrobe (a combination of tour and wardrobe), #erasoutfit, and #renaissance outfit, which fans are using to show off their outfits on TikTok and Instagram speaks to the demand.
Several clothing retailers, such as Nasty Gal, have jumped on the “tourdrobe” train and curated standalone collections for consumers to purchase eye-catching pieces to wear to an Eras or Renaissance show.
What are fans wearing to concerts?
Fans are not only dressing up for Eras and Renaissance concerts, but are doing their best to dress on theme.
At Eras shows, you will find people wearing fringed jackets and shorts, embellished cowboy boots, and brightly colored sequin dresses and jumpsuits, reflecting Swift’s country and pop style.
Whereas at Renaissance shows, concert-goers are more likely to don diamanté-covered knee-high boots and accessories, metallic mini dresses, cowboy hats, and all manner of pieces embellished with sequins, reflecting the futuristic and western-inspired vibe of Beyoncé’s latest tour.
“The ‘tourdrobe’ has become a major part of the concert experience in 2023 as communities of fans drum up hype on socials by sharing outfit inspiration via hashtags. #erasoutfit has over 69 million TikTok views in the United States to date,” Venetia Fryzer, fashion and retail analyst at retail intelligence company Edited, told Inside Retail.
“As a result, concert dressing has become a huge opportunity for retailers. Sequins have also jumped in popularity this summer after proving a staple look for both Beyoncé and Taylor Swift during their sets.
“For example, sequinned apparel saw new arrivals increase 53 per cent in the US from April to July year-over-year, as well as a 256 per cent year-over-year uptick in products that sold out across the majority of sizes over the same period.
“Western boots have also proved popular among fans – US and UK sellouts rose 52 per cent year-over-year from January 2023 to June 2023, with metallics selling well. Bershka’s rhinestone embellished cowboy hat ($329.99) also sold out in May, coinciding with Beyoncé’s UK tour dates.”
Beyoncé and Taylor Swift’s fans are not the only ones dressing up for their beloved entertainer’s performances. Other musicians noted for their costume choices, like Harry Styles, have also seen a significant number of fans dressing up specifically for their performances.
For instance, UK arts and crafts superstore retail chain Hobbycraft reported a 54 per cent increase in page views of its watermelon iron patch during the run up to the Watermelon Sugar singer’s tour dates in May 2023. Other staple items in the ‘tourdrobes’ of Styles fans include feather boas, eccentric prints, bell bottoms, and cowboy boots.
What retail brands need to keep in mind
Fans are ready, willing, and able to go out of their way to dress up for a concert, as Beyoncé and Taylor Swift’s tours have shown.
A recent QuestionPro survey for The New York Times found that about 50 per cent of Taylor Swift fans used their regular income to buy concert tickets and outfits for the Eras tour, while 9 per cent used savings built up during the pandemic.
One brand that has taken note of this trend is Tiffany’s, the official jewelry retailer of the Renaissance world tour with its “Return to Tiffany x Beyoncé” collection, which consists of several variations of the trademark Tiffany’s tag necklace.
Amazon is also profiting from the “Beyoncé Bump”, a term coined by Yelp to refer to the economic boost that the Renaissance tour, which just dropped its third collection of exclusive merchandise, has given to businesses.
A report released by Yelp Data in July revealed that searches for many beauty services surged, with nail technicians experiencing a 193 per cent increase compared to the weekly average in the previous year, while specific searches for wigs went up 81 per cent and hair extensions 23 per cent.
After several years of being cooped up inside, music fans are ready and willing to spend their hard-earned money and savings to attend their favorite entertainer’s concert. They’ve clearly taken to heart the lyric from Beyoncé’s song “PURE/HONEY”, which states: “It should cost a billion to look this good.”
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In retail, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to accessibility
Accessibility is a buzzword the retail industry loves to throw around, especially regarding new product launches. But is the retail industry really living up to the promise of creating products that all consumers, with a variety of physical, visual, and neurological needs, can use?
We reached out to experts in the disability sphere, and several brands breaking barriers within the retail industry, to gather their thoughts on what companies are doing right, and what else they could be doing to better serve the requirements of all consumers.
How large is the market for accessible products?
Mainstream media often neglects to show a true depiction of the disabled population, which can lead some retail businesses to underestimate how wide of a consumer market there is to engage with. The reality is that there is no one example of what a disabled consumer looks like.
The Americans with Disabilities Act defines a person with a disability as an individual who has a physical or mental impairment that significantly limits one or more major life activities. This may refer to partial or full blindness, learning or intellectual disabilities, being hard of hearing or deaf, having a long-term or chronic illness, and so on. An estimated one in four Americans has some form of disability.
Between 2020 and 2021, data from the US Bureau of Labor Statistics revealed that an additional 1.2 million people over the age of 16 were identified as having a disability. This could be due to the rise of long Covid, which has affected over 16 million working-age Americans, according to the US Census Bureau.
A 2018 report conducted by AIR, a behavioral and social science research and evaluation organization, revealed that the total after-tax disposable income for working-age people with disabilities is about $490 billion, with discretionary income of around $21 billion.
According to research and advisory firm Coresight Research, the adaptive clothing market is set to reach $54.8 billion this year, up from $47.4 billion in 2019.
What does it mean for a brand to be considered accessible?
Like other phrases used in the marketing world like “clean beauty” or “sustainable fashion”, the term “accessible” doesn’t have an exact, standardized meaning, and therefore can be freely thrown around when describing a product.
A product that is considered suitable for a person with visual impairment may not serve the needs of a person with a physical or intellectual disability.
Tiffany Yu, CEO and founder of Diversability, a social enterprise that is working to rebrand disability through the power of community, shared her thoughts on how broad the definition of an “accessible” product is.
“The disability community is diverse and the best thing that brands can do to build accessible products is by engaging with us directly and compensating us for our time and expertise. Accessibility looks different for each of us, which is the beauty of inclusive design,” Yu said.
“Let’s use the example of purchasing a watch. As someone with an upper extremity disability, what is important for me would be the strap and having an accessible way for me to put it on. That could include an elastic strap. For someone who is blind, they might look for a tactile watch or one that can voice the time.”
When it comes to designing for a diverse consumer base, Penny Weber, CEO and founder of The Shapes United, the first Australian adaptive fashion label to be sold at Walmart, said that it’s important to create a product from multiple design angles.
“When we are designing, we work with our blocks and customize them to the different market segments and functional needs of each target market. For our adaptive customers, we look for a range of movement needs, and dexterity issues and create pieces for what would be most useful and desirable for that group. For our texture-based products, we look to minimize any of the clothing features that would create a cognitive overload. It is designing for all of the senses as well as for the aesthetic,” Weber said.
For Helya Mohammadian, CEO and founder of the adaptive underwear and loungewear brand Slick Chicks, the importance of creating not only functional but fashionable adaptive wear dawned on her after watching her sister struggle to get dressed following invasive surgery. When she searched for products, she was astonished to find the market full of sterile, medical, and unflattering products. The revelation led her to fill in the white space and design a patented line of adaptive underwear styles.
She believes there are multiple factors the retail industry needs to consider and improve on to become truly accessible to as many people as possible.
“Adaptive features, such as adjustable closures, magnetic buttons, and sensory-friendly fabrics, should become commonplace. Another huge step in the right direction would be to make retail spaces more accessible to all customers. This includes physical store layouts that accommodate mobility aids, such as wheelchairs and walkers, as well as sensory-friendly spaces for those with sensory sensitivities. This will enhance the shopping experience for all consumers,” Mohammadian explained.
Retail industry’s accessible future
Creating an accessible shopping experience doesn’t stop at product design. As referenced by Mohammadian, retail brands need to consider what it’s like to shop in brick-and-mortar stores for those with disabilities.
And most importantly, retail brands need to truly listen to the needs of consumers and consult with disability support and advocacy organizations to fill in any gaps of information about the disabled community that they may not be familiar with or understand.
As Rebecca O’Neil, managing director of Gauge, a software and service platform that conducts mobile focus groups and market research, explained, “Hearing directly from consumers is critical. When you do that – when you actually ask consumers what they want from your brand – the first thing you’ll hear is that representation isn’t enough. Including diverse models in advertising and campaigns is important, but today’s consumers want so much more than that. They want evidence that your brand has thought critically about how it can have a meaningful impact within its unique sphere of influence.”
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How Home Depot built the fourth largest retail media network in the US
The retail media industry is growing at a rate that businesses are struggling to keep up with.
According to market research company eMarketer, US retail media ad spend will reach $45.15 billion this year, an almost 20 per cent increase compared to 2022. By 2027, it is predicted that retail media ad spend will account for more than a quarter of all US digital ad spend, reaching $106.12 billion.
In such a rapidly expanding market, it’s important to take a look at which companies are taking the time and energy to invest in retail media innovations.
Home Depot is leading the charge
When it comes to retail media, one of the companies leading the way with its in-store and online media offerings is The Home Depot.
According to a July 2023 report from marketing analytics platform Improvado, Home Depot is ranked as having the fourth largest retail media network in the US, after Amazon Advertising, Walmart Connect, and Roundel (Target’s retail media network), with over 183 million average monthly unique visitors.
Inside Retail sat down with Melanie Babcock, Home Depot’s vice president of Retail Media+ and monetization, to discuss how the home improvement retailer set up its Retail Media+ program and how it has expanded its retail media offerings since the initial launch in 2018.
“The initial idea was to allow our suppliers to buy retargeting ads to drive traffic back to the website and back to their pages for conversion,” Babcock said.
“I partnered very closely with the Facebook team, now Meta, and we created a portal to allow our suppliers to identify that they did have traffic that was abandoning their product information pages or their carts, to then be able to spend money to target them [consumers] to come back and to convert.”
Developing an in-store network
At the same time this was happening, she explained, Home Depot was also working on on-site retail media capabilities.
“When we initially entered into the retail media space, we had a few core products that were focused heavily on our website. Those were banner advertisements and in-grid sponsored search ads. We have since grown pretty significantly in our owned properties, bringing our mobile app and email properties into the fold,” Babcock said.
“Our biggest area of growth is our stores. We have 100 stores that will be online in the next six months with a variety of screens that will deliver advertising through what we call our in-store network and we will continue to scale that.”
As of July 2023, Home Depot’s in-store network is in 50 locations.
Not surprisingly, Home Depot has found that in-store displays help drive sales. According to the brand, when consumers engage with products being advertised through Retail Media+, they spend 10 per cent more time on Home Depot’s website, are 26 per cent more likely to convert, and 28 per cent of consumers spend more money per visit.
Exploring new partnership opportunities
Another area the brand is planning to shift its retail media focus to is with outside advertisers.
“We are looking for ways to expand with CTV [connected TV] partners, whether it’s Paramount or Hulu, which is a Disney property, or Roku, because we are seeing a lot of interest in doing more brand advertising with our suppliers but they want to use a Home Depot audience to target.”
Home Depot has also launched a Pro site, focusing on contractors who shop at the retail business and created an influencer program, further diversifying its network.
Future of retail media
When it comes to what to expect next from the retail media industry, Babcock wants to see the greater regulation of measurement and reporting of consumer data.
“I think there needs to be a lot of standardization [within the retail media industry] and that’s not a super sexy idea,” she chuckled. “Standardization in terms of reporting and definition of terms like incremental sales. I hear that a lot from our suppliers, especially the ones that participate in multiple retail media networks. ‘How do I know what you are saying is the same as [an alternative retail media network] over here?’ A lot of companies want to invest in retail media, they just don’t know which retail media networks are the best for them. Standardization is going to help out and that starts with measurement.”
Another shift Babcock wants to see across the retail media industry is the way in which retailers use it to help extend the customer experience – and that means focusing on in-store networks.
“I also think that we haven’t really tapped into the store. For the majority of retailers, not e-commerce, but physical retailers like us, our biggest sales converting moment is in the store. Our website is highly successful and we’d be lost without it, but at the same time, the store does attract the majority of the footsteps. What are we doing in the store to extend the customer experience and help the customer make decisions?” she said.
“We need to think about what is our opportunity to extend the customer experience in-store through retail media. I think there’s a lot of innovation yet to come in that space.”
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How the Harlem Renaissance inspired this fast-growing candle brand
As Teyana Taylor, the Harlem Rose herself, once said, “Harlem is a stage. It’s like its own planet, from the way we dress to the swag in the way we walk and talk.”
This rich cultural history is what Teri Johnson wanted to encapsulate when she founded her brand the Harlem Candle Company nearly 10 years ago.
Today, the brand offers a range of fragrance products, including perfumes, candles, soaps, lotions, diffusers, and room sprays inspired by individuals and elements from the Harlem Renaissance.
How the Harlem Candle Company came to be
Prior to launching her own brand in 2014, Johnson was going by the social media handle of Travelista Teri, working on travel content for her own YouTube channel and for various media outlets including the Travel Channel and The Huffington Post.
Johnson believes that this background in social media greatly aided her ability to weave a rich tapestry of stories with her fragrance products.
“The entire brand is inspired by icons and iconic places during the Harlem Renaissance, which took place during the 1920s and 1930s,” Johnson told Inside Retail.
“The Harlem Renaissance was a sort of cultural explosion of artists, writers, people very involved in politics, entertainers, entrepreneurs, creatives, painters, and photographers. These people came to Harlem because it became a place where other like-minded people, people who were for progress, desegregation, and civil rights. Imagine just being in a place where everyone is kind of on the same page about what needs to change.
“I am totally fascinated with what they’ve done, and even just their work, which is still so relevant today. Which I think is why I’m so excited about celebrating them through a fragrance.”
Josephine has named some of her products after well-known figures from this time period, including musician Billie Holiday, writer Langston Hughes, and performer (and World War II-era spy) Josephine Baker.
The idea came about when Johnson was looking for affordable but meaningful gifts. A longtime lover of fragrances, she collected scented oils from a friend, who was also a fragrance chemist, and set about making 50 candles as gifts for her friends and family.
The hand-made tokens were so well-received that Johnson’s sister encouraged her to start her own business and she began selling her fares at pop-up markets.
Before the brand was officially dubbed the Harlem Candle Company, her friends and family originally referred to it as Terry’s House of Candles in French.
However, Johnson knew she could come up with something better, and took inspiration from the neighborhood where she lived.
Johnson moved to New York from her native city of Houston, Texas, and ended up in Harlem, after her friends warned her that Brooklyn was too expensive.
She stated, “I couldn’t be more grateful that Brooklyn was too expensive. Because I would not be talking to you today with this brand.”
Collaborations and growth
While the brand is dubbed the Harlem Candle Company, candles are not the only fragrance product on the menu. Johnson launched an extension of her business, the Harlem Perfume Company in October 2022.
Since the brand’s initial launch with four candle fragrances, the product line now entails 27 candle offerings in various sizes and a range of other fragrance products including perfumes, soaps, lotions, diffusers, and room sprays.
Currently, consumers can purchase products from Harlem Candle Company via the brand’s website, as well as online via Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Macy’s, C.O. Bigelow, Saks.com, Amazon.com, and The Metropolitan Museum’s online gift shop.
In 2021, in celebration of the exhibition, Before Yesterday We Could Fly: An Afrofuturist Period Room, Harlem Candle Company partnered with The Met to present a candle inspired by Seneca Village.
Located just a few hundred yards from the museum’s current location, Seneca Village was a settlement of free, Black tenants before it was destroyed by the City of New York to make way for Central Park.
Notes like wild thyme and cedar leaf, signature scents of Central Park, along with additional aromas of red clove vetiver, and concrete fuse the scents of the present and future together.
Johnson stated that the brand has experienced an average growth of 100 per cent every year since 2016.
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How Latina-owned candle brand Bonita Fierce celebrates culture with scent
When it comes to scented candles, certain scents are much more prevalent than others. Notes like vanilla, sandalwood, and even rose are commonplace, but what about cafecito con leche (coffee with milk), or the lavender version of the cleaning fluid Fabuloso?
That’s where Melissa Gallardo, founder and owner of the delightfully named candle brand Bonita Fierce, is set on shaking up the market.
From corporate to candle-making
Like most entrepreneurs, Gallardo didn’t plan to create her own business; she had an entirely different path in mind.
Having gotten a master’s degree in media management and interned and worked for major media companies including Comedy Central, Spotify, and ViacomCBS (now Paramount Global), Gallardo assumed she would spend her career in large organizations until she realized it wasn’t for her.
“I realized very quickly as I entered the corporate world, that it wasn’t for me. Lucky for me, I graduated in 2019 and I immediately entered the corporate world when the pandemic hit in March 2020,” she said.
At the time, Gallardo was working as a “permalance”, or permanent freelance, employee at ViacomCBS, and her commute from Long Island to the office in New York City was two hours a day.
The shift to working from home allowed Gallardo to reflect on her career path and helped her realize that her work was not financially or emotionally rewarding.
“I felt as if I was never going to get converted into a full-time staff role with benefits. I was 18 months into my role [at ViacomCBS] when I left [to start] Bonita Fierce,” she said. She never looked back.
During the pandemic, Gallardo started a side hustle making candles to supplement her income. The process also gave her a sense of relaxation and joy.
She strategically balanced this work with freelancing for media and tech companies, and soon, she was running Bonita Fierce as her full-time career.
Embracing heritage through scents
The name of the company was inspired by Gallardo’s Salvadorian-American background and her experience as a first-generation Latina who grew up in a multilingual household.
As Gallardo expressed, “Bonita Fierce came from the idea of starting with a Spanglish name, which took me a while to figure out because I really wanted it to represent where I was at an exact moment in time.”
Through her brand, Gallardo is seeking to reclaim her Latina identity, something she struggled with as a non-Spanish speaker. She sometimes felt that she wasn’t Latina enough or American enough.
“The idea of Bonita being a pretty identifiable word in English as pretty, and then fierce is how many Latinas are represented in mass media, as having too much personality or being overly dramatic…I really wanted to reclaim that,” she said.
When it came to selecting scents for her fragrance brand, Gallardo, a longtime candle lover decided to focus on creating products that were not readily available on the market already and brought to mind memories of her childhood.
Thus, the brand’s signature candle scents like “Abuela’s Bakery”, “Horchata”, and “Como La Flor” (a reference to the iconic Selena Quintanilla song, which includes notes of Lily of the Valley, Rose, Jasmine, and Lilac).
This approach has led the brand to become the first Latinx-owned candle brand to be stocked at Urban Outfitters, Barnes & Noble, and Nordstrom.
Gallardo said the brand is on track to experience 100 per cent year-over-year growth and has plans on further expanding into the home goods category with items like fragrance diffusers.
The founder’s long-term goals?
“I see myself becoming the next Martha Stewart of the home space, the Latina Martha Stewart. To me, it’s really important to find representation and create products that are sourced from Latin America, because it’s not represented in the home space,” she said.
In her view, the home goods retail marker is dominated by a Eurocentric view, “and I want to dismantle that.”
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From Shein to Chanel: Why we’re in the age of pop-ups
From Shein to Chanel, Skims to Supreme, more and more retailers seem to be investing in temporary brick-and-mortar locations, more commonly known as pop-up shops.
The use of temporary retail spaces is certainly not a new concept, it has been around for centuries. But the term pop-up is relatively recent. It can be traced back to the late ’90s, when, in 1997, media entrepreneur Patrick Courrielche launched an event in Los Angeles dubbed The Ritual Expo, bringing together music, fashion, and food in a single consumer experience.
In the years following, The Ritual Expo worked with several brands, including Levi’s and Motorola to host pop-ups across the US. And as more businesses embraced the concept, it morphed into a whole new beast.
Consider Chanel’s recent repurposing of a Brooklyn diner for the launch of its Chance Eau Fraîche perfume. The luxury fashion brand completely transformed the greasy spoon, covering every square inch in shades of oh-so-chic mint green and pastel pink.
Then, there’s Pop Up Grocer, which has taken its retro-inspired pop-up shop on the road, stopping off in Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, Denver, Washington DC and other cities, before finally setting down permanent roots in New York City in March.
Pop-up shops today are on steroids, and they are everywhere.
A report by global research and analytics firm IBISWorld states that pop-up shops generated approximately $14.5 billion in revenue in 2022. And the market size of this industry expanded by 3.4 per cent in 2022 compared with the year prior.
Why retailers should invest in pop-up experiences
Marie Driscoll, an expert on luxury retail and the founder and chief analyst at Driscoll Advisors, attributes the recent rise of pop-up stores to a few factors – from retailers wanting to provide new, unique shopping experiences, to the need to continue growing their customer base.
“For digital-only brands, pop-ups provide a way to physically meet their customers and express the brand in a palpable way, to provide a brand experience,” Driscoll told Inside Retail. “And for brands already in physical locations, a pop-up provides the opportunity to explore the potential of new geographies with localized strategies, as well as testing new formats, new fixtures, new products and new merchandising.”
Pop-ups are also a great way for retailers to lean into the preferences of the Gen Z shopper. Driscoll cited data from Lionesque Group, a leading creator of pop-ups, which showed that nearly half of Gen Z shoppers who primarily shop online prefer to engage with brands through experiential pop-up activations when shopping in person.
“They value pop-ups as a place to learn about the brand, and they want to be a part of the narrative and they want to engage with brands in unexpected ways,” Driscoll said.
A good example of this, she said, is Louis Vuitton’s ‘200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries’ exhibition, in which the luxury leather goods brand invited global artists, designers, architects and other figures to reimagine its iconic trunk in celebration of founder Louis Vuitton’s 200th birthday last year.
The traveling pop-up allowed visitors to “immerse themselves in a multimedia vision and artistic storytelling as well as purchase selected items on the ground floor”, Driscoll said.
But as big as the opportunity is, opening a pop-up is not necessarily a risk-free (or resource-light) endeavor, so it’s crucial to understand what separates a successful pop-up from a pop-up flop. Here’s what retailers should keep in mind when planning these ‘here today, gone tomorrow’ shopping experiences.
What makes for a successful pop-up shop
Madelynn Ringo, founder and creative director of Ringo Studio, has designed pop-up and permanent retail stores for some of the most popular brands of the moment, including LA-based digital-native fashion brand Cider, beauty brand Glossier, and cookware brand Our Place. She believes that the key elements of a successful pop-up are authenticity and engagement.
“Retail experiences need to be interactive, not just transactional,” Ringo explained. “Millennial and Gen Z consumers keep high standards with brands they choose to engage with and they are expecting unique and authentic brand connections. Gen Z in particular are very aware when a brand is not being authentic, they can spot it from miles away.”
Ringo noted that Gen Z is very comfortable shopping online, so when they do make the effort to visit a physical store, they expect something unique that they can’t get from the online experience.
“There is something very ethereal and exciting about a pop-up experience because of its temporal existence,” she said. “A pop-up experience allows a brand to take design risks and try something more daring that is sure to make a splash with the online community. Pop-up designs always tend to be more extravagant than permanent flagship stores.”
Retailers should also aim to create interactive shopping experiences that will enable them to connect with their customer base more deeply and build stronger, more sustainable relationships.
“Customers also tend to have more authentic brand engagement in stores that are designed to host community-based activities such as…classes or fireside chats with adjacent brands,” the designer added. “When we were working on the design for [sexual wellness store] Contact Sports, there were discussions around hosting speed dating events inside the space.”
Another thing brands should keep in mind, Ringo said, is the different ways consumers like to shop. For instance, some people prefer to explore a space solo, while others enjoy a collective hangout session.
“It’s important to consider that Gen Z and Millennials like to shop together and in groups. Designing a space that can accommodate a group of friends exploring a store together makes the experience tailored to the generation’s shopping preferences,” she said.
For example, the Cider pop-up shop in New York City, which Ringo Studio designed, has flexible fitting rooms that can be reconfigured for shoppers wanting a private changing room experience, as well as those wanting to shop with a group of friends.
One of the main benefits of pop-up shops, Ringo pointed out, is that they allow brands to learn more about their target market without the risk of a longer-term lease.
“Testing a market with a pop-up is a smart business strategy because it enables the brand to learn the nuances of the particular customers in that market, what their shopping tendencies are, and what they gravitate towards,” she said.
“The brand can also gain experience with retail operations. Everything from hiring staff to ensuring inventory management is trialed and the ideal staff-to-customer engagement is tested. Launching in a new market with a pop-up can provide a valuable learning phase before taking the leap into creating a permanent experience, ensuring that the brand invests its money in something tested and allowing its team to have the necessary time to iron out all the kinks.”
This story first appeared in the December 2023 issue of Inside Retail US magazine.
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Day three at NRF: Unpacking retail’s global future
On the third and final day of the National Retail Federation’s conference, Retail’s Big Show, attendees packed in a few more presentations and last-minute insights from retail’s established and emerging leaders.
Panels on “Global forces shaping the retail business landscape,” moderated by Andrea Bell, vice president of consumer insights at WGSN, and “The Vogue Business Index: Luxury’s new global gateways,” moderated by Anusha Coutiggane, head of advisory at Vogue Business, were particularly enlightening.
2026: the year of redirection
In her presentation, WGSN’s Bell predicted that 2026 will mark a year of redirection, caused by a variety of factors, from political shifts to evolving life milestones.
She broke down the six drivers of change and progress mapped out by WGSN’s STEPIC methodology, which tracks developments in society, technology, the environment, industry, and creativity, that are expected to affect the retail industry moving forward.
Age spectrum
One of Bell’s predictions is that “age-related stereotypes will be dismantled as we embrace a more intergenerational world.”
With a rapidly aging population in countries like China and Japan and many younger consumers following a different life plan, from delaying having children or choosing to remain child-free to living with their parents until a later stage in life, retailers must learn to adapt to these different expectations.
Bell advised retailers to “challenge chrono-normativity” and lean into creating adaptable products and services that cater to consumers of diverse lifestyles, work setups, evolving care ecosystems, and more.
One example is Femmze, an age-inclusive undergarment brand that provides support for anything from bladder leaks to irregular flows or for extra support postpartum.
Intentional tech
According to Allied Market Research, the global virtual humans market was valued at $11.3 billion in 2021 and, as Bell pointed out, the market is projected to reach $440.3 billion by 2031.
Like it or not, retailers will need to adapt to a world that is becoming increasingly focused on artificial intelligence (AI) while keeping in mind the impact of AI on the general public and the need for further development, especially around diversity.
Bell shared the story of an Asian-American MIT graduate student who was using an AI image creator to edit her photo to be more professional. Instead, the program molded her features to look more like those of a white woman.
Bell said that brands should clearly state when an image or video has been edited or created using AI tools to combat disinformation.
Polarized consumption
As consumers become increasingly interested in and aware of eco-responsibility and more intent on prioritizing the purchase of sustainable products over more affordable options, retailers need to adapt to these shifts.
“As more political and economic divisions widen more people will be choosing ethics over aesthetics,” Bell said.
Retailers not only need to invest in creating eco-friendly products and services but also reward customers for their ethical efforts.
Bell shared the story of Plastic Bank, an initiative that encourages the exchange of plastic waste for money, goods, or blockchain-secured digital tokens to encourage recycling and other “green” actions.
Geopolitical tensions
With 64 elections set to be held worldwide in 2024 alone, Bell emphasized that the year ahead is expected to be a big one for social and political change.
“Emerging trade alliances are shaping a new geopolitical order, challenging the endurance of traditional superpowers,” the analyst said.
She pointed to the growing wealth gap, which sees 54 per cent of wealth going towards the one per cent, while 0.7 per cent of wealth goes towards the poorest half of the global population, creating a two-tiered society of haves and have-nots.
In a time of political unrest and overwhelming inequality, retailers need to further address these disparities and “acknowledge the backlash against corporate ‘greediation,’” Bell insisted.
World-building
As the world becomes more globally engaged across cultures and languages, retailers need to embrace a future without traditional borders in place, such as language.
Bell noted Spotify’s recent development of an AI-powered tool that enables a podcast to be translated into a wide variety of languages beyond the original language with which it was recorded.
Overall, Bell encouraged the room, and the retail industry at large, to figure out how to address the gaps caused by generational differences and economic imbalances, reward ethical consumer habits, and strive to envision ways to build a better world through the use of creativity and AI.
Luxury’s new global gateways
Where Bell’s lecture offered a long-term view of the changing state of the retail industry, Coutiggane’s revelations were more centered on geographic areas of opportunity for businesses to consider and explore.
Vogue Business’ fashion market expert suggested that luxury retail will decelerate as consumers become more cautious about indulging in luxury items.
A few statistics Coutiggane brought up from Vogue Business Index’s research revealed:
Lower frequency: 40.7 per cent of consumers will shop less for designer fashion if prices increase.
Reduced spend: 25.6 percent stated they plan to switch to less expensive brands.
More pre-loved: 35.3 per cent will buy more via resale channels.
The Index analyzed 60 top luxury fashion brands by revenue, 11 markets (China, Japan, South Korea, UK, France, Italy, Germany, Spain, Brazil, and the Middle East), and over 160 data points across consumer perception, omnichannel, digital, innovation, financial results, and environmental, social, and governance (ESG). The results revealed three global gateways for retailers to explore:
Brazil
Brazil’s recently passed tax reforms, which will replace five separate consumption taxes with a dual value-added tax system throughout 2026 to 2033, are an opportunity for retailers to engage in this previously complex market. The anticipated tax ceiling is predicted to drop from 34.4 per cent (current sum of overlapping duties) to 27 per cent.
A Brazilian brand that Coutiggane suggested retailers should be aware of is Farm Rio. A 25-year-old brand that currently operates 86 stores in Brazil, and has expanded to New York City, Miami, and Los Angeles in the past five years, it follows several core consumer trends including sustainability. Farm Rio became a Certified B Corp in October 2023, and is a proponent of the “dopamine dressing” aesthetic.
South Korea
In addition to being a strong hub for cultural and fashion influence (e.g. K-pop, K-beauty, etc.), South Korean customers have a strong interest in luxury fashion labels on a level that rivals China.
Coutiggane directed the audience to data gathered by Morgan Stanley that shows South Korean consumers spend $325 per capita on luxury goods, versus China ($55) and the US ($280).
Other points of evidence that highlight South Korea’s value as a global market is the recent news of Coupang’s $500 million acquisition of Farfetch and the percentage (54 per cent) of South Korean luxury consumers who are excited about brands introducing resale.
The Middle East
While the Middle East has been an area of interest for the luxury retail industry for several decades, recent reports predict an upcoming boom in sales from this region.
According to a survey conducted by Boston Consulting Group in partnership with Altagamma, the association of Italy’s top luxury labels, the luxury market in the Middle East will double from approximately $16.5 billion to $38.5 billion from 2023 to 2030.
Citing details such as Saudi Arabia’s fairly young population, 63 per cent of whom are under the age of 30, and the distinct characteristics and needs of each territory in the Gulf Region (e.g. Qatar and the United Arab Emirates have strong expat populations, while Kuwait is all about local consumers), Coutiggane said that retailers interested in investing in this region must avoid treating the Middle East as a monolith.
Whether it’s investing in a new country, as Coutiggane suggested, or exploring ethical and humane AI efforts, as Bell encouraged, retailers certainly have an interesting and potentially profitable year ahead of them.
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Day two at NRF: Retail bosses debunk Gen Z myths and discuss growth
If day one of the National Retail Federation’s annual conference, Retail’s Big Show, was all about AI, the overarching focus of day two was learning how to appeal to the modern consumer, especially Gen Z.
“Digital strategies to decode Gen Z” was the topic of one of the opening panels. Moderated by Hilary Milnes, executive Americas editor at Vogue Business, it featured representatives from some of Gen Z’s favorite companies, including Linda Li, head of customer activation and marketing of H&M Americas, Ann Piper, head of North American ad sales for Spotify, and Caleb Pearson, vice president of US customer engagement at McDonald’s.
Although these three brands operate in very different retail sectors, Li, Piper and Pearson agreed on a few common tactics for effectively engaging with the Gen Z consumer, from focusing on and enhancing the in-store shopping experience to learning how to “share the pen” with this younger, social-media-savvy shopper.
Invest in a personalized shopping experience
Right off the bat, Li debunked the idea that Gen Zers are only interested in shopping via digital channels: “They [Gen Z consumers] browse, they learn, they experiment, but what we have seen is that the Gen Z customer actually prefers to shop in stores and that’s been something that’s been a huge lesson for us.
“I think the reason for this is because the store experience allows for more personalization and for more socializing as well, especially in the post-Covid era…A big part of it is also the desire for self-expression, which helps define this generation quite a bit. The in-store shopping experience can really enable that [sense of self-expression], but as brands and retailers, it becomes incumbent upon us to deliver those in-person experiences that can be differentiated and allow for that aspect of personalization and self-expression.”
A few ways that H&M is attempting to differentiate the in-store shopping experience in various locations is by having specially curated Spotify playlists for specific stores or having a different noted fragrance for a store.
Let Gen Z in on the (marketing) fun
All three panelists agreed that Gen Z is wary of inauthentic marketing tactics from brands. To navigate this, McDonald’s Pearson has coined the term “sharing the pen” to describe the act of letting Gen Z consumers help shape a brand’s marketing strategy and engaging with these creatively-minded consumers afterward.
For example, Pearson pointed to the Grimace Shake takeover of 2023. To honor Grimace, a character in the McDonald’s storytelling universe, the fast food retailer decided to make a purple shake and release it on his birthday, June 12. However, the campaign did not go off exactly as planned.
The day after the shake was released, a TikToker released a video of himself taking a sip of the Grimace Shake, which then dissolved into a shot of him lying on the floor with the purple drink under and surrounding his face, similar to a murder scene. The video immediately went viral, garnering over 2.6 million views on TikTok alone, and led to a countless number of parody videos of McDonald’s customers pretending to have died from drinking a Grimace Shake. What some may have viewed as a marketing disaster turned into a boon for McDonald’s.
By playing along with the silly, if slightly morbid, narrative and allowing its customers to influence the product’s storyline, McDonald’s sales rose nearly 12 per cent during the April-June season, beating Wall Street’s previous forecast of only 9.4 per cent.
As Pearson told retailers in the audience, “This notion of ‘sharing the pen,’ I would just encourage brands to do it authentically. It has to be authentic, you can’t try to control it, and let them [Gen Z consumers] express themselves.”
Listen to the customer, even when it may surprise you
Just as Lin discredited the theory that Gen Z consumers are only focused on digital shopping channels, Spotify’s Piper busted down another long-held belief about teens and younger consumers.
When you think of the musical hits of the summer, especially among teens, you may imagine more carefree tracks. However, as Piper revealed, the most searched term amongst Gen Z Spotify users for summer 2023 was “sad”. Or “bummer summer” as Spotify dubbed the sad tunes that Gen Z listeners were craving.
Piper compared Spotify to a mirror and explained that between experiencing the Covid pandemic during their formative younger years, dealing with post-college adjustments, and other heavy issues, Gen Z consumers have a lot on their minds and are seeking out music and artists that help them express (there’s that word again) themselves and what they’re feeling.
One reason that Spotify resonates with Gen Z so strongly is because of the listening platform’s ability to understand moods and moments. Similar to how Spotify Wrapped reflects a user’s playlist and top-followed artists, Gen Z consumers want to engage with companies that reflect their own beliefs and interests.
How Glossier and Béis became the top dogs in retail
Following these consumer insights, a panel on “Retail Disruptors” addressed the question of how some of the industry’s most exciting brands are appealing to Gen Z.
Shopify president Harvey Finkelstein moderated a conversation with Shay Mitchell, founder and chief brand officer of Béis Travel, and Kyle Leahy, CEO of Glossier.
Finkelstein started by saying that “in the history of retail, the velocity at which businesses are being built today has never been seen before.”
“Both Béis and Glossier have grown at what we call at Shopify, “holy shit” speeds,” he said, noting that Béis Travel’s generated over $200 million in sales in 2023 alone. Both brands have “created a category within a traditional category that just didn’t exist before,” he said, and have kept a “vise grip on the consumer.”
What have been the keys to their success? Both brands:
Are open to innovation and listen closely to consumer feedback – both in-store and via various social media channels. They give the customer what they’re looking for, such as luggage with a built-in weight indicator.
Create fun and interactive temporary store experiences, such as the 2023 Béis Travel x Shopify holiday pop-up shop, to engage with the consumer and introduce new and mainstay products.
Glossier became Gen Z’s favorite makeup, skincare, and lifestyle brand by recognizing a market that was seeking something different and becoming a brand that defined a generation.
While Béis Travel currently has a primarily millennial female audience, the brand is rapidly growing its base of Gen Z consumers with the brand’s launch of its Béisics collection, a line of aesthetic but accessible products, with a youthful energy that is appealing to the younger shopper.
From Glossier embracing the “your skin but better look” with lightweight, well-formulated products to Béis Travel catering to the trend-following, jet-setting consumer with practical but pretty travel tools, these brands are keeping up with the so-called flightiness of the Gen Z shopper.
As Li stated, Gen Z isn’t flighty, they are simply well-educated consumers with a bevy of options to choose from. This means brands must ensure they’re the best option on the market by listening and reflecting back what Gen Z is really looking for.
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Day one at NRF: For Walmart, Ssense and others, it’s all about AI
If day one of the National Retail Federation’s annual conference, Retail’s Big Show, was all about AI, the overarching focus of day two was learning how to appeal to the modern consumer, especially Gen Z.
“Digital strategies to decode Gen Z” was the topic of one of the opening panels. Moderated by Hilary Milnes, executive Americas editor at Vogue Business, it featured representatives from some of Gen Z’s favorite companies, including Linda Li, head of customer activation and marketing of H&M Americas, Ann Piper, head of North American ad sales for Spotify, and Caleb Pearson, vice president of US customer engagement at McDonald’s.
Although these three brands operate in very different retail sectors, Li, Piper and Pearson agreed on a few common tactics for effectively engaging with the Gen Z consumer, from focusing on and enhancing the in-store shopping experience to learning how to “share the pen” with this younger, social-media-savvy shopper.
Invest in a personalized shopping experience
Right off the bat, Li debunked the idea that Gen Zers are only interested in shopping via digital channels: “They [Gen Z consumers] browse, they learn, they experiment, but what we have seen is that the Gen Z customer actually prefers to shop in stores and that’s been something that’s been a huge lesson for us.
“I think the reason for this is because the store experience allows for more personalization and for more socializing as well, especially in the post-Covid era…A big part of it is also the desire for self-expression, which helps define this generation quite a bit. The in-store shopping experience can really enable that [sense of self-expression], but as brands and retailers, it becomes incumbent upon us to deliver those in-person experiences that can be differentiated and allow for that aspect of personalization and self-expression.”
A few ways that H&M is attempting to differentiate the in-store shopping experience in various locations is by having specially curated Spotify playlists for specific stores or having a different noted fragrance for a store.
Let Gen Z in on the (marketing) fun
All three panelists agreed that Gen Z is wary of inauthentic marketing tactics from brands. To navigate this, McDonald’s Pearson has coined the term “sharing the pen” to describe the act of letting Gen Z consumers help shape a brand’s marketing strategy and engaging with these creatively-minded consumers afterward.
For example, Pearson pointed to the Grimace Shake takeover of 2023. To honor Grimace, a character in the McDonald’s storytelling universe, the fast food retailer decided to make a purple shake and release it on his birthday, June 12. However, the campaign did not go off exactly as planned.
The day after the shake was released, a TikToker released a video of himself taking a sip of the Grimace Shake, which then dissolved into a shot of him lying on the floor with the purple drink under and surrounding his face, similar to a murder scene. The video immediately went viral, garnering over 2.6 million views on TikTok alone, and led to a countless number of parody videos of McDonald’s customers pretending to have died from drinking a Grimace Shake. What some may have viewed as a marketing disaster turned into a boon for McDonald’s.
By playing along with the silly, if slightly morbid, narrative and allowing its customers to influence the product’s storyline, McDonald’s sales rose nearly 12 per cent during the April-June season, beating Wall Street’s previous forecast of only 9.4 per cent.
As Pearson told retailers in the audience, “This notion of ‘sharing the pen,’ I would just encourage brands to do it authentically. It has to be authentic, you can’t try to control it, and let them [Gen Z consumers] express themselves.”
Listen to the customer, even when it may surprise you
Just as Lin discredited the theory that Gen Z consumers are only focused on digital shopping channels, Spotify’s Piper busted down another long-held belief about teens and younger consumers.
When you think of the musical hits of the summer, especially among teens, you may imagine more carefree tracks. However, as Piper revealed, the most searched term amongst Gen Z Spotify users for summer 2023 was “sad”. Or “bummer summer” as Spotify dubbed the sad tunes that Gen Z listeners were craving.
Piper compared Spotify to a mirror and explained that between experiencing the Covid pandemic during their formative younger years, dealing with post-college adjustments, and other heavy issues, Gen Z consumers have a lot on their minds and are seeking out music and artists that help them express (there’s that word again) themselves and what they’re feeling.
One reason that Spotify resonates with Gen Z so strongly is because of the listening platform’s ability to understand moods and moments. Similar to how Spotify Wrapped reflects a user’s playlist and top-followed artists, Gen Z consumers want to engage with companies that reflect their own beliefs and interests.
How Glossier and Béis became the top dogs in retail
Following these consumer insights, a panel on “Retail Disruptors” addressed the question of how some of the industry’s most exciting brands are appealing to Gen Z.
Shopify president Harvey Finkelstein moderated a conversation with Shay Mitchell, founder and chief brand officer of Béis Travel, and Kyle Leahy, CEO of Glossier.
Finkelstein started by saying that “in the history of retail, the velocity at which businesses are being built today has never been seen before.”
“Both Béis and Glossier have grown at what we call at Shopify, “holy shit” speeds,” he said, noting that Béis Travel’s generated over $200 million in sales in 2023 alone. Both brands have “created a category within a traditional category that just didn’t exist before,” he said, and have kept a “vise grip on the consumer.”
What have been the keys to their success? Both brands:
Are open to innovation and listen closely to consumer feedback – both in-store and via various social media channels. They give the customer what they’re looking for, such as luggage with a built-in weight indicator.
Create fun and interactive temporary store experiences, such as the 2023 Béis Travel x Shopify holiday pop-up shop, to engage with the consumer and introduce new and mainstay products.
Glossier became Gen Z’s favorite makeup, skincare, and lifestyle brand by recognizing a market that was seeking something different and becoming a brand that defined a generation.
While Béis Travel currently has a primarily millennial female audience, the brand is rapidly growing its base of Gen Z consumers with the brand’s launch of its Béisics collection, a line of aesthetic but accessible products, with a youthful energy that is appealing to the younger shopper.
From Glossier embracing the “your skin but better look” with lightweight, well-formulated products to Béis Travel catering to the trend-following, jet-setting consumer with practical but pretty travel tools, these brands are keeping up with the so-called flightiness of the Gen Z shopper.
As Li stated, Gen Z isn’t flighty, they are simply well-educated consumers with a bevy of options to choose from. This means brands must ensure they’re the best option on the market by listening and reflecting back what Gen Z is really looking for.
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Fifteen Percent Pledge and Brother Vellies founder Aurora James. Supplied
Fifteen Percent Pledge founder talks diversity in retail and what’s next
It all started with a social media post. Just a few days after the murder of George Floyd, Aurora James, the founder of award-winning luxury lifestyle brand Brother Vellies, took to Instagram to implore major corporations to put their money where their mouth is in support of the African-American community.
Many large corporations had issued public statements in the wake of Floyd’s tragic death, conveying their commitment to racial justice and equality, and in some cases detailing their donations to organizations such as the American Civil Liberties Union, or the NAACP’s Legal Defense Fund. But at a time of deep pain and outrage over racial injustice, some of these statements felt like lip service to James, and she decided to do something about it.
On May 29, 2020, James posted a series of screenshots on Instagram, calling on specific companies, including Whole Foods, Target, Walmart, Saks, Sephora, Net-A-Porter, Barnes & Noble and Home Depot, to offer more than just words and address racial inequality in their own businesses.
“I am asking you to commit to buying 15 percent of your products from Black-owned businesses,” she wrote.
“So many of your businesses are built on Black spending power. So many of your stores are set up in Black communities. So many of your sponsored posts are seen on Black feeds. This is the least you can do for us. We represent 15 percent of the population and we need to represent 15 percent of your shelf space.
“So for all of the ‘what can we do to help?’ questions out there, this is my personal answer. #15PercentPledge.
“I will get texts that this is crazy. I will get phone calls that this is too direct, too big of an ask, too this, too that. But I don’t think it’s too anything – in fact, I think it’s just a start. You want to be an ally? This is what I’m asking for.”
The post immediately went viral, with celebrities and news outlets amplifying James’ message. In November 2020, James added the title of founder of the Fifteen Percent Pledge to her already impressive resume.
How it works
The Fifteen Percent Pledge is a non-profit organization petitioning major retailers and corporations to “take the pledge” to dedicate at least 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned brands and support equal opportunity for Black people in the workplace.
Why 15 percent you might ask? As the organization states on its website: “Over 13 percent of people living in the United States identify as Black and another estimated 2 percent identify as mixed race, totaling 15 percent. At The Fifteen Percent Pledge, we feel that 15 percent is the least that these major retailers can do to help close the financial gap in this country.”
The organization works closely with each company that takes the Pledge, to audit, advise, build out a contract, and hold them accountable on their path to reaching 15 percent. Contracts are for no less than four years, but they can be longer – Nordstrom, for instance, has a 10-year agreement.
If the company is not able to fulfill the goals of the Pledge in the timeline originally planned, the organization will re-evaluate what steps need to be taken and, if needed, what aid has to be provided.
James told Inside Retail that, “Everyone that takes the pledge has to have their own unique approach on how they’re going to execute it, what they’re going to contribute to the landscape, and how they’re going to make it their own.”
Creating this sense of personal buy-in is important since the Pledge requires a lot of hard work and organizational change behind the scenes. Companies may find that they need to hire additional staff or change their processes to reach their goals. It’s not as simple as featuring diverse models in a marketing campaign.
“I’ve been on the phone with pretty much every retailer in this country, they’re all going to tell you some of the same things. One, they’re going to tell you that they are very excited to share that more than 15 percent of their retail staff are Black, and that more than 15 percent of the people that they feature in their ads are also Black,” James explained.
“I think for a long time representation meant hiring Black models and to me, that’s not representation per se, that’s optical allyship. If you can have 40 percent of your talent in your ad campaigns be Black, but zero Black people in your boardroom, then the math isn’t mathing for me.
“I’m interested in people who genuinely are trying to make more diverse companies, and who really want to lean into making that diversity as profitable as possible.”
What’s been achieved so far
Since launching in 2020, 29 companies have taken the Pledge, and the organization has helped over 625 Black-owned businesses develop ongoing relationships with them, procuring over $14 billion in profits thus far.
By 2030, the Pledge aims to drive $1.4 trillion of wealth generation for Black entrepreneurs and increase Black business representation in the US by 14.6 per cent.
“It is a marathon, not a sprint. It is not going to happen overnight,” LaToya Williams-Belfort, executive director of the Fifteen Percent Pledge, told Inside Retail.
“If we want to see a real sustainable systems change as it relates to a more inclusive economy, we have to do the work in the right ways. It cannot just be trying to get a ‘good report card’, trying to onboard a lot of brands really fast. You [the retailer] have to do the work strategically for the long haul.”
The organization has a number of Pledge-takers in the pipeline, and expects to be able to announce new partnerships in the first half of next year, Williams-Belfort said.
Additionally, the organization has created the Business Equity Community, a directory of Black-owned businesses in the US and Canada across several retail categories, including fashion, beauty, food, wellness, art, publishing and more. The directory has 5,000 businesses and counting.
Williams-Belfort firmly believes that having more Black businesses in retail stores is not only good for those businesses but for the wider industry and economy as a whole.
“Hopefully, people will do this because it is the right thing to do. But it’s really about just creating pathways for equal and equitable opportunity. And in doing that, we’re able to drive revenue and create good business,” she said. “And people who are still on the journey will see that, ultimately, inclusive economics is good business.”
Lessons learned
As the first retailer to take the Pledge in June 2020, Sephora has been working with James to diversify its brand offering for over three years.
“In order to accomplish real, lasting, widespread change, you need partners who are as passionate as you are to actualize a goal,” Priya Venkatesh, global chief merchandising officer at Sephora, told Inside Retail.
“We found tremendous partners in Aurora and the Pledge team and are stronger together to make more equitable and diverse retail experiences.”
For Sephora, taking the Pledge has come with tangible benefits. At a time when many retailers are thinking of ways to improve their customer experience, the beauty retailer is making sure that people of all backgrounds feel seen and welcome in its stores and on its website, and can find products that meet their needs.
“Committing 15 percent of our assortment to prestige Black-owned brands is not only the right thing to do for our business but also our beauty and retail communities,” Venkatesh said.
“While we know there is still much work to be done, we are excited to share that we’ve hit the 15 percent mark in the haircare category, have incubated 65 brands since 2021 with 11 now available at Sephora, and more than doubled our Black-owned brand offering.”
Her one piece of advice for other retailers that have taken the Pledge, or are contemplating doing so, is not to rush the brand launch process just to meet a benchmark: “With any brand we bring on, we want to ensure they are set up for long-term success.”
More than a report card
At the end of the day, the goal of the Fifteen Percent Pledge isn’t about grading retailers on their diversity efforts – you get an ‘A’, you get an ‘F’. It’s about driving long-term growth for current and future generations of Black business owners.
As Williams-Belfort said, “Both of my sons want to be entrepreneurs. I’m so hopeful that what I’m doing with my amazing team and board creates a space for them to show up authentically and be judged on their capacity and not on the color of their skin. I will feel like [that’s] a job well done.”
This story first appeared in the December 2023 issue of Inside Retail US magazine.
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From Tsingtao to Tower28: Why Lunar New Year collabs are all the rage
Even though the Lunar New Year officially begins on February 10, and festivities will last through February 24, retailers and eager consumers have already begun celebrating in earnest.
From food and beverage brands like Tsingtao to fashion houses like Fendi, Lunar New Year is being honored with collections and events inspired by this year’s animal in the Chinese zodiac, the wood dragon.
Tsingtao, the internationally known brand of beer produced by China’s second-largest brewery, is collaborating with four of New York City’s most innovative Chinese dining destinations Hutong, MáLà Project, Milu, and Hunan Slurp to welcome in the Year of the Dragon.
From January 30 to February 12, these popular eateries will feature a series of exclusive Tsingtao-infused meals and drinks, offering a contemporary twist on each restaurant’s classic dishes.
For example, Hunan Slurp will be serving ‘Beer Duck’, a duck braised in a rich sauce of chili pepper, ginger, and Tsingtao beer. Hutong will be serving ‘Xingréng Pijiu’, a beer cocktail combining Tsingtao with tomato juice, Maggi seasoning, and a blend of spices, along with a few other delicious details.
In a release, Steve Hauser, CEO and president of Paulaner USA, the US distributor of Tsingtao, stated, “The Lunar New Year is a time of renewal and celebration. Tsingtao’s collaboration with these esteemed restaurants reflects the multifaceted nature of Chinese cuisine and the communal spirit of the occasion. Together, we are crafting a narrative that not only highlights the culinary prowess of these establishments but also the shared joy and prosperity that Tsingtao brings to tables across the city.”
In a time when customers, now more than ever, are craving innovative and interactive experiences, like a perfume-focused pop-up “diner” or a scented shopping path, marketing campaigns such as these are a key way to drive organic social content and create a positive consumer-to-product association.
Flying off the shelves
In the Consumer Moments: Lunar New Year – Insights for 2024 report, Kayla Marci, a senior retail analyst at retail intelligence company Edited, predicted that retailers would be likely to invest in nostalgic licensing as part of their Lunar New Year merchandising options.
For brands landing dedicated ranges, products embedded with nostalgia traditionally experience success for the holiday,” she explained. “The Year of the Dragon offers several scaly characters reminiscent of our childhoods alongside more recent pop culture editions.”
Several examples Marci discussed in the report included Mushu from Mulan, Haku from Spirited Away, and Sisu from Raya and the Last Dragon.
Since then, several fashion companies, from mid-tier brands to luxury houses, have been selling out with their recently launched or soon-to-be-dropped Lunar New Year collections.
In December 2023, Fendi announced its collaboration with Pokémon and Japanese designer Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear collective Fragment. The collection, which included items ranging from handbags to hoodies with Pokémon characters Dratini, Dragonair, and Dragonite, became available to the public on January 4.
Only a few weeks post-release, the hot-ticket items in the collection, including the brand’s classic baguette mini (which retails for approximately $3,000) with a reptilian twist, have already sold out and are on backorder.
Beauty brands are also getting into the holiday spirit with limited-edition collections including Tower 28’s Kung Fu Panda-inspired gift set, which includes a red lip and cheek duo and an SOS spray (two of the brand’s star products), as well as a dumpling steamer, chopsticks, and a headband resembling the ears of a Panda bear. The set, which was released on January 6, is already sold out and has an extensive waitlist.
While collections of this nature were certainly not as present in the American retail mindset even 10 years back, thanks to a growing interest in diverse holiday representation, holidays like Lunar New Year, Hanukkah, and Eid will continue to be a growing focus in the yearly commerce calendar.
As Addison Cain, a beauty strategy and innovation manager at consumer behavior and trend analysis company Spate, shared, the number of Google searches for Lunar New Year averaged around 1.3 million, with searches experiencing a 5.7 per cent increase in comparison to the year prior.
Judging by the number of sold-out Lunar New Year collections around the world, it doesn’t appear as if these numbers will be dropping anytime in the next few years.
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Fendi, Pokemon and Fragment have teamed up on a limited-edition collection. Source: Fendi websiteFendi, Pokemon and Fragment have teamed up on a limited-edition collection. Source: Fendi website
Why Fendi’s collab with Pokémon signals a big year for anime in retail
Even though 2024 just started, trend researchers are already predicting what will be hot and not in the world of fashion and beauty for the year ahead.
One notable recent trend that’s predicted to carry into 2024 is the incorporation of anime into limited-edition collections by mid-tier and luxury brands alike.
In December 2023, Fendi announced its collaboration with Pokémon and Japanese designer Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear collective Fragment. The pieces in the collection include several items from handbags to hoodies with Pokémon characters Dratini, Dragonair, and Dragonite in celebration of the upcoming Lunar New Year holiday, marking the year of the wood dragon. The collection is available to the public from January 4.
Some notable anime collaborations from the past year include:
Jimmy Choo x Sailor Moon: February 2023
In honor of the manga/anime series’ 30th anniversary, Jimmy Choo released a limited-edition handbag, shoe, and accessories drop inspired by the popular franchise. Items in the collection ranged from $495 to $1,800 and practically sold out overnight.
Loewe x Howl’s Moving Castle: February 2023
Fashion and leather luxury goods brand Loewe teamed up with Studio Ghibli for its third and final collaboration collection, with a focus on one of the studio’s most well-known productions, Howl’s Moving Castle. Previous Loewe x Studio Ghibli collaborations highlighted the studio’s other classic films My Neighbor Totoro in 2021 and Spirited Away in 2022.
Levi’s x Princess Monokoke: August 2023
The apparel retailer also teamed up with Studio Ghibli for a limited-edition collection with items inspired by the company’s film Princess Mononoke, items in this release ranged from $62 to $186.
Tiffany & Arsham Studio & Pokémon capsule collection: November 2023
The jewelry collection included items ranging from $1,290 to $29,000, and even though the pieces were only available for purchase online for 24 hours, the assortment immediately sold out.
Moving forward into 2024, the retail industry should expect to see even more anime-themed drops scattered throughout the year, especially those featuring dragon-inspired characters.
What is fueling anime-inspired limited-edition fashion collections?
Like the return of many Y2K fashion trends, a key factor behind the rise of anime and manga-inspired fashion and beauty collections is nostalgia, especially for millennial and Gen Z consumers who grew up on animated series such as One Piece, Dragon Ball Z, and Sailor Moon.
Additionally, the global anime market at large is expanding at a rapid rate with loyal and new followers. According to market analysis company Grand View Research, the global anime market was estimated at $28.6 billion in 2022 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 9.8 per cent from 2023 to 2030.
In addition to merchandise from publishing companies and toy retailers, brands, both mid-tier and luxury, within the fashion and beauty industry also want a piece of the anime pie.
Krista Corrigan, a retail analyst at retail intelligence company Edited, told Inside Retail, “Investment from major luxury brands in the anime world is soaring,” referencing both Tiffany & Co and Fendi’s collaborations with Pokémon as an example. The retail analyst noted that consumers should expect to see more fashion collaborations from this anime property specifically.
“The impact is trickling down into the mass market,” Corrigan elaborated. “In the past few months, Zara, H&M and Abercrombie & Fitch have all identified Pokémon as a worthy license ahead of the holidays. Arrivals of Pokémon-related products in the mass market have grown 60 per cent year-over-year over the past three months.
“Product trends have shifted from footwear to accessories like hats and bags, driving down the overall average price of assortments in both the US and UK. In Zara’s drop, items like T-shirts, backpacks, and pajamas have moved well and are out of stock, while more expensive varsity jackets and hoodies remain available.”
In addition to having a relatively built-in audience from an ever-growing fanbase of anime fans, there is also a financial benefit for retailers to license popular franchises.
As Corrigan explained, “Licensing is a lucrative bet for several retailers by up-charging for popular themes and characters. H&M charges $17.99 for a plain oversized sweatshirt, but $27.99 for the same style with Hello Kitty and Pokémon graphics. The increase can help provide a margin cushion, particularly through the heavy promotional holiday periods.”
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